What Is The Gameboy Dmg-01 Driver Cross Screwdriver

The LCD modules are known for developing bad connections, so you probably dont want to aggravate the LCD during the capacitor replacement process.

Do not use toilet paper or something like that since that could scratch the inside of your screen.

Instead of going into details about the obvious mods, like replacing the screen (cover), buttons and silicon parts I will focus on the more technical aspects of modding.

Got any questions not covered in this tutorial Go to my official Facebook page, click like and ask me.

What Is The Gameboy Dmg-01 Driver Cross Screwdriver

Procedures How to install a backlight How to install a bivert chip How to do the Prosound to headphones mod How to do the bass mod How to do the Decoupling capacitor on the powerstrip mod Final results What you need before getting started Game Boy DMG-01 Soldering iron or Soldering station, preferably one with variable temperature Solder wire Desolder braid or Desoldering Gun Scalpel Tri-point Y1 screwdriver Cross screwdriver Wire Small chordcutter Isopropanol Cotton swabs Polishing cloth Game Boy Backlight kit Game Boy Bivert chip 1 Electrolytic capacitor 1000uF, 10V minimum 2 Electrolytic capacitors 10uF, 10V minimum OK lets get started.

Remove the polarizing film and reflective layer on the backside of the screen Open up your Game Boy and remove all the screws from the two boards, then pull out the ribbon cable connecting the two halves.

There will be a little resistance because of two small adhesive pillows on the inside.

When you have pulled up the screen enough to see them both, carefully remove them with a pair of tweezers.

Now you are going to pull off the polarizing film and reflective layer while trying not to break the screen and the solder points underneath the screen.

This part can be a bit tricky so if its your first time I recommend to first try it out on screen that is already broken beyond repair, for example one with screen cancer.

You will remove both of them in one take by inserting a sharp knife like a scalpel in the top left corner.

The trick not to scratch the screen is to press in the knife just a few millimeters where the layers meet the glass.

Then use the knife, carefully pushing the material away from the screen so that it opens up a corner big enough for you to grab with your thumb and index finger.

Once you can grab it, start slowly pulling away more by moving your thumb inwards and along the sides of the screen.

The process of removing the polarizer and reflective layer can be anything from quick and simple to very hard, depending on the stickyness of the glue.

I have found that the newer models of the DMG-01, the so called Play it loud editions usually are the easiest ones to work with, in terms of removal time and amounts of glue that are left to be delt with afterwards.

Try not to exert too much force on the screen so that it bends.

That popping sound is not something I would like to hear ever again when doing a backlight mod Also try not to put too push the screen too much away from the frame as this may damage the fine solder points under the screen.

Here you can see how I have slowly and carefully worked my way towards the other side of the screen.

Clean the screen With the polarizer layers finally off, best case scenario there is almost no glue on the screen.

The cleaning process can take anything from 10 minutes to an hour depending on the amount of glue left on the screen.

Use plenty of Isopropanol and cotton swabs in a circular motion to loosen up the glue and then drag the bits of glue off the screen.

You may have to go through three to twenty cotton swabs depending on how much glue is left.

The goal here is to remove all of it and that may take some time if you are unlucky.

When all the glue has been removed, there will still be some residue from the isopropanol on the screen.

Clean that off with a very fine polishing cloth, like the one you would use to polish a car.